Walkera V200D01/D02 Thread (250 Size)

[cobieg]

Like I stated before, the only reason I bought this was that it is heavier than my blade 120 sr. that is hard to control in the very slightest breeze ( you could blow on it and send it off course ), and this should be more stable.
That is why I am thinking of the flybar conversion until I am a better pilot. Iam still a beginner heli pilot. I do hold a private pilot fixed wing ticket, and I must say it is alot easier flying by the seat of your pants. mabey I will do the conversion and put on training wheels for a couple of months. Then switch back to flybarless.

[flyingdeutschman]

You can use the same rx if you convert it over. Just turn the 3 way gyro off when you put the flybar on. Or you can leave it on and turn down the adjustments to compensate for the flybar. It would be kinda like a  brushed 180z.

[cobieg]

turn off the #2 switch that is off-bal-on to off ?

[flyingdeutschman]

not sure,but it sounds right. I didn't have the D02. I had the D01 which was a different rx. Or you can remember where the ail and ele pot adjustments are and then turn them all the way down.
Maybe schultzy can shed some light on where to shut the 3 way off.

[cobieg]

Ok, I just pulled the trigger, or should I say credit card and ordered new rotor head, flybar, weights, and linkage. Schultz had suggested using dual rates but this radio does not have that feature.I will try this for a while then switch back.

[sjschultz]

Without Dual Rates, go to your RX and dial back the Ele/Ail Ext pot to reduce servo travel .. Similar effect as dual rates 'on' ..

You are correct about switch #2 ... This turns the 3in1 Balance Mode on/off ...
I have no idea how the RX / Heli will perform with this turned off.
I tried once with the Ele and Ail adjustments turned down to about 20% and on take off I promptly had to install a new set of rotor blades / tail blades / main shaft / gears.
Using a FB Head 'should' compensate for this, but as I have never tried it, I can't say.

Still, I say stick with the stock V200 setup and take it slow instead of altering it. This is just added expense that you don't need when your starting out.
Maybe I am missing something, but adding a FB will only do the same thing as the 3in1 unit does now, so I don't see how it's going to help.
After already spending $1000+ on my Belt CPv2 and crash repairs, if it hadn't been for my V200 I would have given up on Helis all together.

As for the outdoor in the breeze / wind flying ...
Sad to say, but I don't think you will get much better results than your Blade 120 ..
Yes bigger is normaly better, but I would need 10 hands to count the number of times my V200 hit the dirt due to a slight breeze.
My Nine Eagles Solo Pro V1 is more stable outside in the wind than the V200. 
Again though I can't compair with larger FP Helis that have FB, as the only FB Heli I have is my Belt CPv2 and that's a whole different kettle of fish.

[cobieg]

well,I already have the parts on order for the tail dd motor and the main gear and pinion, so whats another $40.00 and about an hour going to hurt. I tried turning down the ext. pot. didn't seem to help.
 
I have a Trex 100x that is only about 6 inches long. this can be flown indoors and I can fly it fairly well. Too many breakables to fly anything else inside. I wish there was a big indoor gymnasium or something like that to train in around here. flight time before the wind picks up around here is about 6-7am.

So I will try this, and if it doesnt work then ill just use the parts to frankenstien something. Ill keep in touch.

Thanks for all the help and support, you guys are great and so is this forum!

[flyingdeutschman]

I dont know what parts you bought for the conversion,but if i remember right. The angles of the ail and elev. servos are different on the flybar than on the flybarless. You would have to get the the main body,servo holder,swash plate,rotor head,blade holder,rotor head,bellcrank set,ball linkage set,flybar,balance block. To make it all work.
http://www.xheli.com/50h28-03.html
http://www.xheli.com/50h28-04.html
http://www.xheli.com/50h28-05.html
http://www.xheli.com/50h28-06.html
http://www.xheli.com/50h28-07.html
http://www.xheli.com/50h28-08.html
http://www.xheli.com/50h28-09.html
http://www.xheli.com/50h28-17.html
http://www.xheli.com/50h28-18.html
Thats alot of money to convert it over to flybar.

[cobieg]

The only thing I didnt purchase is the main body and servo mount. I bought a complete complete aluminium rotor head w/main shaft attached for a cb180z. I believe that if I use the swash plate from the v200, it should still work correctly.

I did recieve the tail dd motor conversion parts today and have that installed.

[flyingdeutschman]

The swash plate off the v200 is different. The swash plate guide is at a different location then off the 180 series.

[cobieg]

I found a conversion for the 180z that is supposed to make it eazy to fly in the wind, and it uses the swash for the V200d02 and also the main frame.

[flyingdeutschman]

Are you talking about the 90 deg. flybar from wowhobbies or the 45 deg. flybar with the weights?
The 90 deg flybar that wow sells wont work with the v200D02 because of the swash plate and frame are different from the 180z,180D,180Q, and v200D01.That's why they don't offer it for the v200D02. It flying slightly better in the wind will not make it easier to fly than the v200D02 flybarless as stock. So i think you will be defeating your purpose. For $89. is steep for a conversion. Would be better to just buy the cb180D or 180Z bind and fly and use it until your better.
The comparison i did on the 2 swash plates and main frame was on my cb180D and my V200D01 and they were both different.
http://www.wowhobbies.com/walkeracb180zbrushlesshelicopterwk-2402txcncheadshaftdrivetail-3-1-1.aspx

[cobieg]

I checked the part numbers on the swash and the main frame. They are the same for the 200. I am not buying that conversion, but, I guess my question is, does it matter where the anti rotation point is for the swash, aprox. 10 oclock on the 180Z , and 12 oclock on the 200 as long as the servo points are at the same, at 3 and 6 ?
I must also add that a friend of mine that has been flying since he was knee high to a grasshopper, tried to fly this over this weekend, he could not control it. He cannot figure out why it would be so unstable, in a nice hover then it starts jerking and moving all around. I have the swash and gyro settings as it came out of the box. The only thing I have done is the tail dd conversion and re-balance. We cant figure why the swash would go back and left. he had to hold forward and right on the stick just to hold a hover. he said that the tail was holding just fine. Could it be the rx ? This is the 2440V-D rx because this came with the 2402D tx.

[flyingdeutschman]

I checked the part numbers on the swash and the main frame. They are the same for the 200. I am not buying that conversion, but, I guess my question is, does it matter where the anti rotation point is for the swash, aprox. 10 oclock on the 180Z , and 12 oclock on the 200 as long as the servo points are at the same, at 3 and 6 ?
I must also add that a friend of mine that has been flying since he was knee high to a grasshopper, tried to fly this over this weekend, he could not control it. He cannot figure out why it would be so unstable, in a nice hover then it starts jerking and moving all around. I have the swash and gyro settings as it came out of the box. The only thing I have done is the tail dd conversion and re-balance. We cant figure why the swash would go back and left. he had to hold forward and right on the stick just to hold a hover. he said that the tail was holding just fine. Could it be the rx ? This is the 2440V-D rx because this came with the 2402D tx.

I dont know where you got your part #s,but the swash and frame are not the same parts from the CB180Z and the V200D02
The 180z swash: HMCB180-2-06
V200D02          : HmV200Do1-Z-15
CB180z frame   : HMCB180-Z-18
V200D02 frame : HMV200D01-z08
http://www.xheli.com/hm-cb180-z-06.html
http://www.xheli.com/hm-cb180-z-18.html
http://www.xheli.com/hm-v200d01-z-08.html
http://www.xheli.com/hm-v200d01-z-15.html
The reason why they are different is because the servos have to be at a different angle from a 45deg flybar as to a flybarless heli. which is the same reason the anti rotation bracket is different. The swash has to be the same angle as the servos or the ball linkage will not line up.
Is your heli a devo version?
Did you friend trim out the heli for you? If he has been flying helis for a while then he should know how to trim it out. If not then rebind your heli and make sure the servo arms are at 90 deg. after binding (with all the trim tabs center ) If it is already set there then take the ball linkage off The swash plate from the rear servo and turn the plastic ball link 1 full turn counter-clockwise and re install. Then take the other ball link off the right side of the swash plate and turn it clockwise 1 full turn and re install. Then use trim tabs to trim. If using trim tabs on your tx is in excess then you will have to re adjust your linkage to your swash.
As far as the jerking then just turn down your AIL. and ELE. pots on the rx. Just a tiny bit at a time. A little adjustment goes along way. Until the jerking stops. I hope this works for you.

[cobieg]

I checked the part numbers from that kit from wow hobbies. this is a devo version. My friend did not trim this for me, I just asked him to fly it. The orignal problem is that the more power you give it , the more the swash moves rearward and left. It will do this with the motor disconnected as well. That is what is so confusing. Could this be a Devo problem?